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A vent de liberté souffle sur Sucre

Two weeks have passed since May 25, Sucre great day for celebrating the bicentennial of his beloved "Grito de libertad". Indeed, it is here that was born in 1809, a protest movement that would be reflected in all of Latin America to lead 15 years later on declarations of independence throughout the subcontinent. For several weeks, Sugar was preparing for this celebration. Everywhere there was talk of the bicentennial, the parades never ended, and the four corners of the city for concerts and exhibitions were organized around this theme. To be honest, it's becoming a bit tiring sometimes: can not get to town without seeing a parade (and on the streets to cut traffic, including pedestrians ...). And for the uninitiated tourists to cultural differences and ethnic meanings that can be traditional dances, it sad to say but no explanations were tired quickly.

Among the best memories of May 25: The "Feria del chocolate", the chorizo, and the fireworks at the stadium! Ferias fairs are organized around a theme. That chocolate is good for us because it is not easy here to find good chocolate. And then the fair was an opportunity to discover a little Andean grain exported: the amaranto. Similar to quinoa, is found in drinks, in soups, or as the basis of delicious chocolate bars! Feria chorizo, she stood on the heights of Sucre, the viewpoint which I have already had to talk. Program / menu: chorizo, beer, and concerts. Beefy as Sunday breakfast, but so good ...
the evening a concert was held at the stadium. We went too late to get places facing the small stage where the concert took place (which turned its back on three quarters of the stadium ...). Strangely, despite the fact that we did not see the concert and half the stadium was in the dark, the stands were full! And security level, it was poor (leave a whole stadium to fill, so we can see not at 3 meters it's crazy) ...

We still stayed long enough to witness a memorable fireworks display: the most dangerous but also the most beautiful I have ever seen! The fires took off from midfield and we could see the technicians running, torches in hand, amid the smoke and firecrackers. We would really like a scene of war! Fireworks exploded above the public on which descends the ashes of the rockets. Personally, I have not received, but I had a good adrenaline rush!

I must also tell you that two days earlier I realized one of my dearest wishes: to see Evoooo (Morales, the president of Bolivia, for the uneducated). He was on an official visit to Ravelo, a small village 3 hours from Sucre to pay tribute to the heroes of the independence of Bolivia. Ravelo Why? Firstly because it is the Azurduy Juana was born, an Indian who was head of the guerrilla movements against the English in 1809. On the other hand because considering how little esteem in which he residents of Sucre, it is preferable that there not come (the render Sucrenses responsible the loss of "Capitalia plena" and the deaths of two people during the riots that took place in Sucre last year).

I was very fortunate to go there because I managed to get a seat at the last moment in the small bus rented by members of Nantes for the occasion. His manager had confirmed the day before that there would be seats for Charlotte and me, but when leaving, the "haves" have realized that the bus was too small for all that we were returning. They of course decided to give priority to people Ñanta and we have made the ticket money by telling us to go home. I was panicked at the thought of not going. Fortunately, both Charlotte, who knew how much it meant to me, have insisted they let me go at least me, and it worked. They, by cons, remained on the sidewalk ... I can not thank them enough for their gesture.

Since this episode, even if the trip went well with them, I prefer to avoid people Ñanta. I feel in this center a special atmosphere. The center of the lives of some foreign money and labor of volunteers with whom relations are ambivalent. Sometimes one feels that " Nantais people want to share with strangers, at other times they feel they do well they will always be foreigners. For example, whenever the teacher cultivation center has come chat with me, it was to tell me that I could not understand what he meant because I was not born in Bolivia. Whatever their origin, I hate people who come to worship their culture to the point of despising the other
... It's important to enjoy its culture and be proud, it seems to include a condition precedent any exchange, but if I explain when a Bolivian this or that tradition, I do not like when he begins trying to show me how its traditions are better than mine. In my opinion, no culture worth more than another and that is what makes the richness of diversity. It is by understanding the diversity that comes to relativize their own beliefs and be more tolerant!

Ravelo Anyway, it was great! In the morning, coming out of the classroom where we had spent the night, what was our surprise to see the school yard full of soldiers in full rehearsal. With their uniform green, yellow or red, they seemed straight out of a cartoon. I even went on the Internet compare to those required of French soldiers of the First World War ... and no doubt there are similarities! As France has greatly influenced the construction of Bolivia as a nation, it would not be surprising that the military uniforms were inspired to create their French ... but I'm sure of anything, I prefer to let you judge for yourself looking at the pictures.

Evo Morales arrived around noon by helicopter. After passing the salute, he mounted the stage to assist expected to parade in his honor. The parade was worth it because in addition to the trades 'normal' (doctors, teachers, apprentices of all kinds ...) there were also many farmers from across the region to parade before their president! Dressed in the traditional way, they marched to the sound of sicuri (pan flutes) and other Andean musical instruments, some brandishing whipala, the flag of indigenous peoples.

After the parade, Morales has made a long and very moving speech he lambasted neoliberalism and reported progress in its reforms. In a small village as Ravelo, this translates into the arrival of a tractor or construction of new infrastructure for the village ... and it seems nice little things for the people what they see around them is what matters more.

The next week came Bruno, who began his six-month sabbatical in Latin America by a few days in Bolivia with me! I went to look at La Paz and we decided to spend the weekend. We were staying with Daniel, who had already stayed at my arrival two months ago and a half. We again treated like royalty. We still talked about free software and it has convinced me to install Ubuntu on my computer! I still have to learn to use it, but the motivation is there (I'm waiting just to get internet on my Ubuntu assignment to quit back to Windows whenever I want to connect)!

The weekend went super well. On Friday we walked in the shopping district of La Paz (streets and streets filled with general merchandise and food unknown to taste). We finally went to see the "witches market", ie the part of the market which houses shops potions, amulets and other strange remedies to solve any problems (cirrhosis of the heartache ... everything is cured!) . Unfortunately (or fortunately) we did not buy anything magical, just a key chain shaped Peruvian hat but it was for that mamita who kept the shop lets us take her picture!

I almost forgot: on the way to the market, we came across a table tennis club! I could not help but come ... and I was right: his manager invited us to come back the next day to participate in a tournament. We ended the next afternoon to play everyone in a pool of four or five players. Despite the fact that we were eliminated from the first turn, nice table tennis players invited us to come back, and saw their home, I intend to enjoy my few days in La Paz next week to go play a game!

At the end of the weekend we took the bus to Sucre where we've come Monday, the anniversary of Bruno and my cooking class with moms. In Bolivia, the tradition is that which is the anniversary plunges his head into a big cake with cream, and I promised to mothers initiate Bruno tradition during the workshop. Frankly, I must say that it has honored a tradition (I would even say he did better than Bolivian true because it has plunged the entire head in the cake, or I later learned that the most Bolivians do dip the mouth)!

... tomorrow is Voila voila the start of the weekend and we went camping with friends at the crater Maragua, a "backwater" in the mountains a few hours by bus and walk from Sucre. Next Tuesday we will return to La Paz. From there, take the direction of Bruno Peru where he must find a friend, and I take the bus to Arica, Chile, or I have to find Cristian and Macarena, two Chilean friends encountered the first Erasmus Salamanca 4 years ago and one in Bilbao last year during my internship at the Consulate of France. Program range, visits, reunions, and departure to La Paz they absolutely want to visit! Small problem: it is not at all sure that I can leave Bolivia because my passport is currently with the migration, which plans to keep two months, the time to edit my visa. I applied for a passport outstanding loan from the immigration service but I do not know if it will work ... it will depend on the goodwill of Customs of La Paz! At worst, I'll stay in La Paz to wait quietly Macarena and Cristian at Daniel ...

Voila voila
... As you can see (and even if he started doing a bit cold these days) , everything is always for the better in the sun sugar, and it While parti pour durer!
Many kisses to everyone. Take care

Marionnette