Scion Tc 2008 Tail Lights

visit my mother in Sucre ... and the mines of Potosi

Mi madre, Maria Cristina and her two friends, Claudine and Pascale came to Sucre on Saturday July 4 in the morning, tired but happy: your air travel and overnight in Santa Cruz had elapse well.

The day after arrival we had planned to go to market Tarabuco. After 1h30 bus in the middle of the valleys around Sucre, we Tarabuco, a small town famous above all for its Sunday market where Tarabuqueños sell their textiles and other handicrafts. The Tarabuqueños, and Jallkas villagers in general are known for their weaving. The making of a material requires several months and required to have an insane patient. Indigenous continue to weave on their looms manuals t raditionally. Tied to the vertical hundreds of threads from which then spend another thread that will give one or another color to the fabric as if they go up or down (not easy to explain, sorry ...). Most of the time, weave the wool of their goats, llamas and alpacas! It is a painstaking task!

typical fabrics are red and black Tarabuqueños and represent underground creatures, completely imaginary or inspired by reality. I took this Tarabuco Sunday shopping to buy some tissues I have hurry to teach!

The following week, as he had been unable to spend time with my mother and her friends earlier this week because of my workshops, I took Thursday and Friday to accompany them to Potosí. When we got there on Thursday night, we were lucky: the first agency to propose a visit of mine convinced us. We proposed a visit by French et a special rate for Claudine and my mother would not enter the mine and were content with a visit abroad.

José Luis, Our guide, a Bolivian with a remarkable level of French (especially for someone who has learned only), was impeccable! He took us first to market "miners", where they buy the products that will enable them stand all day at the bottom of the mine: coca leaves, alcohol at 96 °, soda, cigars ... And dynamite! Miners also buy a piece of "catalyst" paste mixed with coca leaves in his mouth for more flavor and facilitate the absorption of its juice. The catalysts are made from quinoa ashes, or even corn. There are several flavors depending on what you add potatoes, anise, banana ... As far as I'm concerned, I prefer to chew the coca leaf "natural" (But who said the cocaine alone had a bad taste?), Perhaps I have not found the catalyst of my dreams.

Once purchased gifts for the miners (dynamite and soda), Pascale and I took our clothes of miners, rubber boots, pants and a yellow plastic jacket and a helmet and headlamp. In Potosi tourists visiting the mines seem to come out of the book Germinal. Wandering in the middle of real miners at work in a tourist attire a little ridiculous (but necessary say, quite useful once in the mine). As much as I like I was comfortable, past the locker room door, outside the shock of reality was hard.

Then take the path of the Cerro Rico, the mountain whose precious minerals, he was famous Potosi. For over which culminates at 4800 meters, from the start of operations, 400años ago, the hill sank at least 200 meters. However, mining today is much lower than what has been in the past, when the mountain brimming with silver and tin. Today, the Cerro Rico is not exploited rather than for zinc, which constitutes 80% of mineral extracted.

While Claudine and my mother waited outside, Pascale and I went to follow in the galleries José Luis narrow, muddy and dark on the hill. From my first visit of mine a few years ago, had kept the memory particularly stressful. With Caroline, we descended several levels to the hottest galleries. Dificál was breathing, it was dark, it was necessary jump to the wall every time I passed a van, we banged the roof ... I remember especially after the first few minutes, I just thought on one thing: going outdoors! This time the visit was more "soft" because we stayed at the level at which we entered and spent only an hour inside. Pascale, not three rassurée muypas au depart, did not regret having come, we chat with the miners and José Luis Contet all our questions.

Here it comes, in disarray, what he told us:

Today

Potosí population amounted to 150 000. Last year, 15,000 miners working in mines, or one tenth of the total population. This year, reefs have been thinned and mining activity are no longer 4500. Of the 10 000 remaining, many were recycled in the construction, sometimes permanently, sometimes hoping that they can provide a bonanza to follow (each miner is a vein until it is exhausted (the reef ... not mine .. . but we can say that the miner also because life expectancy is 55 years ...))!

All the miners belong to cooperatives, which distribute the reefs, fixed (depending on the size of the reef?) The duration of contracts and determines the selling price of the mineral to The refineries membership in a cooperative mining costs at between 600 and 700 dollars! Any new mining should invest an initial capital to buy their materiel and basic tools (chisel, hammer, lamp, uniform, boots ...).

Before the cooperatives were the only managers working in the mine, miners had state. But in 1985, when the mineral really began to thin, many mines were closed and all state miners were fired. When the activity is resumed, the cooperative took over the state.

Potosí was founded

in 1545, after the English discovered the Cerro Rico and silver. The veins of silver were of such quality that the mines of Potosi not take long to become the world's most productive. Were the main source of wealth for the English Empire for over two centuries, until the end of the colony. But then, other foreign businessmen came and ordered to continue the exploitation of mines and at the same time the native population.

Despite its difficult location (altitude, cold, lack of oxygen, arid soil ...), the city developed into late eighteenth century the largest city in all Latin America, and one of its richest. But the decline came fast: in the early nineteenth century, silver production began to decline. It was thanks to the extraction of tin mining activity remained. Today, the mines are still operating mostly due to zinc. However, it is important to remember that 90% of the silver of the English Empire during the colonial period came from Potosi.

Today, unlike the former state-owned mines where miners benefit from some more modern tools, the mines are managed by cooperatives Like working for the colony. Csa mining ore extracted by hand using rudimentary tools (hammer and chisel in particular). The drilling of the galleries depends on the orientation of new veins, which run till miners have extracted all the ore. This mode of operation aspect, that explains the labyrinthine underground. The order only refers to the levels or floors. As the Hill is more than to500m high, there are many entries (200 according to Jose Luis), located at different altitudes. The galleries and wells only hold wooden beams, and major injury, accident at the mine are caused by derumbes (non-flammable gas, and then there is no risk of coal mine Phew.)

Miners work an average of 10 to 12 hours each day and earn between 1000 and 1800 Bolivianos per month (between 100 and 180 €).

Here are the basic information. I will not dwell on the period of the colony and forced labor of indigenous people (tens of thousands dead in the mines), those who are interested will find information easily on the internet (or send me your questions).

After visiting the mines, went to rest, and then I went back Sucre where I was expecting a very busy weekend. To mark the birthday of Colin and Charlotte, we rganizers a house party. Despite the failure of my banana cake and my motivation at half-staff, the evening was a success. Felix, a Chilean passion for music, came with his guitar and played a good part of the night. So once again I became autistic and spent a good part of the night taking advantage of the concert ... advantage also to inaugurate the "wrist-musical" that Tarabuco had bought a week earlier. It is decorated with goat clogs are clashing when you shake the doll! Convenient to set the pace without being heard too.

On Tuesday and Wednesday following, we organize a fair DECIC Education in the House of Culture, in order, among other things, Colin and Charlotte are about to leave, presented the results of workshops Everything was to perfection! Here is a little article I wrote for the website story Ayni where the event:

A successful show for Ayni

On Tuesday and Wednesday This week, Ayni Education organized a major exhibition at the Casa de la Cultura de Sucre. After several weeks of preparation, members of the association were rewarded by the success of her that attracted many visitors.

For two days, the House of Culture is filled with children, parents and other curious to discover the activities of the Association. Everyone had the opportunity to try a game of Ayni, among whom were some new ones, created by volunteers. People might find crafts made by children and to taste the dishes prepared by the mothers of Mesa Green. It was an opportunity for each volunteer to present the results of their workshops, and for children and mothers to discover the amount of work done in recent months!

The courtyard just enough to get the whole event. The houses were arranged around the runner and volunteers distributed among them according to their activity.

at the gate, Nelly and Elodie (when not attending to journalists) welcomed visitors and discover the educational games were created by Ayni: burbot, the 4x4, the tangram ...

A little further, Assia, Mickael, Zulma and Melby did visit the exhibition of handicrafts made with the children. From the comics of Assia and flowers Mickael-recyclable paper items to Zulma and Melby ceramics, the works were displayed in no less than six tables.

The following officers received the cooking workshop and sale of food and Marion Coline. In the morning, from 10, children and Villa Armonia Sica Sica were cooking crumbles present and sell to their great happiness, cookies and crumbles were more successful! In the afternoon, trainee chef gave place to the mothers of Mesa Verde, to prepare some of the dishes found at the workshops. I wonder since he left nothing left API, cheesecakes, gratin of cauliflower, pastries, fruit salads and pizzas. As they enjoyed their dishes, visitors could discover the secrets of cooking mothers keeping an eye on the recipe and photos of the workshop.

A few yards away, strange fruits and vegetables with legs waiting for the visitors. With her big eyes and their bright colors, the sculptures of plants called much attention. Those who had more curiosity could come and discover their names and their stories: Mika's father, Rodrigo cucumber, peanuts ... Johnny

A side of vegetables was the corner "toy library "Géraldine. Was laid on the floor rugs, pillows, and ... a lot of games. They were taken by assault by children who spent several hours with the volunteers who did not stop to deal cards.

In the big table, and Charlotte R Magalí taught children (and parents) Ayni didactic games. While some backbreaking to resolve as quickly as they could the operations of the 4x4, the other concentrated to remember the location of the letters of the "Memory of Bolivia."

At the same time, few tables away, Coline continued heading of "Game of the seven families in the departments of Bolivia." In the version of Ayni game invented by each family corresponds to each department, with his dancing, his shield, his culinary specialty, its flag, anniversary date and emblematic animal!

The two days were scored by Luke puppet shows, clown whose valuable talents once again made the children laugh out loud.

Wednesday, when the night began to fall, the time of closure and dismantling the show had arrived. With a glass of cider in hand, Kelly thanked all participants and provided the success of this ... and the next fair!

far as I'm concerned, this show allowed me to take stock of the first three months of my volunteering. Despite having the feeling of lack of time to prepare as much as I would like my workshops (in particular the theoretical interventions to the mothers), I am very happy. The best proof of the success of my workshops was the motivation of mothers during the fair. A little stressed on Monday to think that alone should cook dishes that had been done once, it came out great. Do not know yet if it collected a lot of money but not lost, that's the most important.

As for my other workshops, after several days stressed about not finishing on time mache paper plant had begun Urkupiña children, what a relief to see them exposed! People found them well made ... and me too!

Now, I'm thinking of new workshops for the month of September. To cut only cooking workshops, I would like to start a macrame workshop (making bracelets, necklaces and other trinkets) with children. I'll have to enable me before ... but I'm very motivated. I would also start a pastry shop Urkupiña adolescents, young people at the height of a rebel, not always easy to handle, but full of mind when they proposed activities. Besides skiing camps, I've never worked with adolescents ... It's now or never!

And from here until September, what plans? The first fifteen days of August I will devote to my project back to France (which is to organize a small festival on the theme of Bolivia, with photo exhibit, screening of documentaries and organization a concert of Bolivian music in Lille). Charlotte and I are still in the drafting of the dossier ... but is taking shape! I'll give more details in next post ...

Then, take a vacation. I have taken the last fifteen days of August for exploring in Chile, an old dream ... Charlotte and Charlotte will be in the travel and Marie who just arrived in Latin America. We plan to lower the Pan to Santiago by car location ... A more promising road trip!

Voilà voilà, that's it for today!

Un beso a todos great.

Chao

Marion

Caramel Colour Sulphites

Visit maman ... et des mines de Potosi

Mom, and Claudine Pascale (the two friends who accompanied him on his trip) arrived in Sucre Saturday, July 4 in the morning, tired but happy: their flight and their night in Santa Cruz had gone well.

The day after their arrival we had planned to go to the famous market Tarabuco. After 1:30 bus in the middle of beautiful valleys, we have come a Tarabuco small town famous above all for its Sunday market or sell their tarabucos are textiles and other crafts. The Tarabucos and villagers Jallkas in general, are known for their textiles. The realization with cloth often takes several months and requires patience insane. Indian spin on their traditional looms. They cling to the vertical hundreds of son in which they then pass other son, taking care to pass above or below the vertical son according to the color they want to get (not easy to explain, sorry ... ). They weave with wool of goats, llama or alpaca. A real work of ants.

fabrics are typical of red tarabuqueños and black represent creatures from the basement, imaginary or inspired by reality. I took advantage of Sunday shopping was to buy some tissues Tarabuco: I hate to show you!

The following week, as I could not spend much time with mom and her friends at the beginning of the week because of my workshops, I took my my Thursday and Friday to assist them in Potosi. When we arrived the bottom Thursday night we were lucky: the first agency to offer visit the mines in which we entered we were convinced. We were offered a guide in french and a special rate for Claudine and mother who did not enter the mine (and have merely an external visit).

Jose Luis, our guide, a Bolivian remarkable level of french (especially for someone who taught himself) was perfect! It was first taken to the "marketplace of minors", or they may buy the products they need to take all day bottom of the mine: coca leaves, alcohol has 96 °, soda, cigarettes ... and sticks of dynamite! Minors ALSO BUY a piece of "catalyst", they mix with pasta of coca leaf in their mouth to give them more flavor and facilitate the absorption of juice. The catalysts are made from the ashes of quinoa flour, or corn. There are different flavors depending on what you add: Potato, aniseed, banana ... In my case, I prefer to chew the coca leaf "nature" (but who said that coca had only bad taste?), Maybe I just have not found envore the catalyst of my dreams.

Once purchased gifts to minors (dynamite and soda), Pascale and I went to put our combination of minor: rubber boots, pants and yellow plastic jacket and a helmet and a headlamp . A Potosi tourists visiting the mines seem straight out of Germinal! They walk among real miners at work in a tourist outfit a little ridiculous (but, I must say, very useful once the mine). Though I pretend that I was comfortable, passed the door of the locker room, the clash with the outside was rough.

Then we took the road to the Cerro Rico, the mountain which made the precious ores Fame Potosi. It was nice to peak at 4,800 meters since the beginning of its operations, 400 years ago, the Cerro afaissé has at least 200 meters. Nevertheless, today's mining activity is significantly below what it could be in the past, when the mountain was full of money and tin. Today, the Cerro Rico is hardly exploited for its zinc, which constitutes 80% of ore mined.

Claudine and has remained mum shot from outside the mine while Pascale and I followed Jose Luis in the galleries narrow, and dark boueueses cerro. From my first visit of mine a few years ago, I had fond memories especially distressing. With Caroline, we descended several levels below ground, to the hottest galleries. It was difficult to breathe, it was dark, we had to throw against the wall every time a wagon passed, people will stop without hitting the ceiling ... I remember especially that spent the first minutes, I thought only one thing: finding the open air! This time the visit was "softer" because we stayed at the level we had entered and had only spent an hour inside. Pascale, not very reassuring at the beginning, did not regret coming here: we were able to discuss with the miners and Jose Luis has answered all our questions

That, in bulk, the few data I learned:
Today the population of Potosi is 150 000. Last year, 15,000 miners were working in mines, ie one tenth of the population of the city. This year, the dykes are scarce and minors in business are more than 4500. 10 000 others, many were converted in the building, sometimes permanently, sometimes until they are given a new vein to exploit (each following a minor vein until it exhausts itself (the vein eh. .. although the minor as well ... the average age of minors is 55 years old))!

minors belong to a cooperative, which distributes the seams between its affiliates, fixed (depending on the size of the vein?) The duration of contracts and determines the selling price of ore to the refineries. The cooperative has a membership costs at between 600 and minor 700 dollars! Any new miner must invest capital starting, then buy its equipment and basic tools (chisel, hammer, lamp, uniform, boots ...).

Before the cooperatives are the sole administrator of the work in the mine, there were minor state. But in 1985, when the ore was really starting to become scarce, many mines have closed, and all minors of state were dismissed. When activity resumed, the cooperative system that has predominated.

Potosi was founded in 1545, after the Spaniards had discovered the Cerro Rico and money. veins of silver were of such quality that the mines of Potosi were quick has become the most productive in the world. They were the main source of wealth of the English empire for over two centuries, until their decline.
Despite its geographical situation difficult (not easy to live so high, because of the cold, lack of oxygen, soil aridity ...), the city has grown to be converted in the late 18th century in the largest city in Latin America, and one of the richest. But the decline was not long: in the early 19th century silver production began to fall. It then thanks to the extraction of tin mining activity that has continued. Today, it is mainly thanks to the zinc mines continue to operate. Nevertheless, it is important to remember that 90% of the money of the Empire for the colony came from Potosi!
Today, unlike the old state mines or miners beneficiaent tools a bit more modern mines managed by cooperatives continue to operate as in the days of the colony. Each miner extract the ore by hand using rudimentary tools (hammer and chisel mainly). Drilling of the gallery depends on the orientation of new veins that minors until after having extracted all the ore. This mode of operation explains the appearance of the labyrinthine interior of the mine. The only "order" refers to levels or stages. Cerro Rico measuring more of 500 meters in height, there are a lot of entries (200 according to Jose Luis), located at different altitudes. The galleries and shafts are supported by wooden beams, and major accidents in the mine are caused by landslides (no flammable gas in Potosi, so no gas explosions America, phew!).
Miners work 10 to 12 hours per day on average and earn between 1,000 and 1,800 bolivianos per month (between 100 and 180 €). That
for basic info. I do not dwell on the period of the colony and forced labor of Indians (tens of thousands died in the mines): those interested will find information easily on the internet (or send me their questions)!
After visiting the mines, we went to rest, eat, then I went back to 17h on the bus or waiting for Sucre a busy weekend. To mark the anniversary of Colin and Charlotte, we had a party at the apartment. Despite my "pie banana has" failed and my motivation at half-mast, the evening was rather successful. Felix, a Chilean music enthusiast, came to the house with his guitar and played much of the night. So I once again "because my autistic" through much of the evening listening to play ... and I 'took the opportunity to inaugurate a small wrist Music I Tarabuco has bought a week earlier. It is decorated with goat hooves that rattle when shaken the wrist! It's great to beat the record pace that you can hear it too ...

Tuesday and Wednesday, which followed, we decided to organize a Feria Educativa a la casa de la cultura, in order, among other things, that Colin and Charlotte who will soon leave, present the results of their workshops. Everything went super well! Here is a little article I wrote for the site of Ayni and I tell the event! :

Feria successful for Ayni

For two days, the Casa de la Cultura has full of children, parents, or of onlookers, curious to discover the activities of the association. All have had the opportunity to participate in games of Ayni, test the latest game created by volunteers, to discover the handicrafts made by children or to taste the dishes prepared by mothers of Mesa verde. It was also an opportunity for each volunteer to present the results of its workshops, and for children and mothers to discover the extent of the work done in recent months!

The patio just sufficient to accommodate the event. The stands were placed around the course and volunteers distributed them according to their activity.

posted at the entrance, Nelly and Elodie (when they were not busy answering journalists) and were welcomed visitors to discover the educational games created by Ayni: the lota, el 4x4, el tangram ...

A little later, Assia, Michael, Zulma and Melby did visit the exhibition of work manuals produced with children. Comics Assia flower-recyclable Mickael through objects Zulma paper and ceramics Melby of the works were displayed on no less than six tables!

following tables hosted the cooking and selling food and Coline Marion. In the morning, 10am, children Sica Sica and Villa Armonia were on hand to cook and sell what they had prepared. To their delight, galletas crumbles and were a huge success! In the afternoon, cooks apprentice must give way to the mothers of Mesa Verde, which had decided to prepare some dishes only discovered during the workshops. They came out it was perfect because of the API, fritters with cheese, cauliflower gratin, cakes to yogurt, fruit salad and pizza ... there is nothing left! While enjoying their meal, visitors could even discover the secrets of cooking moms casting an eye on the recipe book and photos of the workshop.

a few meters, strange fruit and vegetables mounted on legs were waiting visitors. With their big eyes and gaudy colors, the sculptures of plants attracted attention. The same approach could be more curious to discover the names of plants and their Stories: Mika's father, Rodrigo pepino, Johnny le mani ...

Nearby, Geraldine had prepared the ground on blankets, pillows etttt ... lots of games. The toy library corner was immediately attacked by the children who spent several hours with Geraldine and to linking Charlotte.C card games and board games.

On the large table that followed, Magali R and Charlotte were introducing children (and parents) learning games of Ayni. While some scramble to solve as quickly as possible the operations of the 4x4, the other to keep focused location maps of the "Memory of Bolivia."

Meanwhile, a few tables away, Colin chained parts of the "seven families of the nine departments of Bolivia." In the version of the game invented by Ayni, each family corresponds to a department, with its dance, its crest, its culinary specialty, his flag, his birthday party and his emblematic animal!

The two days were punctuated by puppetry Lukas, whose precious talent clown has once again done laughing children.

Wednesday evening when the night began to fall is that it was time to close the fair and everything apart. No sooner said than done: a glass of cider in hand, Nelly thanked all participants and then toast to the success of the fair ... and those who follow!

In my case, this feria allowed me to take stock of my first three months of volunteering. Despite the perceived lack of time to prepare as much as I want my workshops (including theoretical interventions with mothers), I am still very happy. The best proof of the success of my workshops was the motivation of mothers during the fair. A little Monday had the idea of having a panic only cook dishes that they had seen him only once, they fared beautifully. I do not know yet whether they collected lots of money, but they have not lost is the primary!

As for my other workshops, after several days of stress did not finish in time the paper mache Plant I started with the children of Urkupima, what a relief to see them exposed! Everyone found them quite good ... and me too!



At present, I think of new workshops for September. History does not only make cooking workshops, I would like to set up a workshop macramé (making bracelets, necklaces and other jewelry to son) with children. It will take me to form before ... but I am motivated! I would also start a pastry shop with Urkupiña adolescents, young people in full-age rebel, not always easy to manage, but cheerful when they are offered activities. Besides the ski camps, I have never conducted a workshop with teens ... it's now or never to try!


And by September, what's expected? The first fortnight of August will be devoted my project was back in France (which is to organize a small festival on the theme of Bolivia, with exhibition of photographs, documentary films and organizing a music concert Bolivian Lille). Charlotte and I are still at the stage of drafting the project folder ... but it takes shape! I'll talk in more detail in the next post ...

Then I took a vacation! I asked the last fortnight of August to go finally to the discovery of Chile, an old dream ... Charlotte and Charlotte will be traveling, and Mary who has just arrived in Latin America. We plan to descend until the Pan American rental car in Santiago ... a road trip plus that prometteur!

Voilier voilou pour les nouvelles! Je vous tous embrasse fort. Chao A bientot



Marion

Denise Milanie Tied To Bed Post

of the path of death in the New Year aymara

24/06 Little time has passed since my last post. However, many things have happened since its start-line that can not resist the urge to write a new one. Furthermore, since this morning I stay in bed because of severe indigestion pique a lo macho (to understand what it is, here's a list - not exhaustive - of its components: chips, plantains (fried) onions (fries), tomatoes, sausage, chorizo, chunks of beef, boiled eggs, the whole swimming in a cooking liquid fat thick and well ... This dish is certainly the worst enemy of the Bolivian diet ... (and now mine too)). To avoid details, except to say that the type of food is less pleasant to regurgitate (but one hour, I'm better, I just gobble up a plate of white rice with a piece of bread. I expect a positive output of my digestive system The answer will come in a few more minutes!) ...

Today I will begin by talking Maragua crater where Coline, Gaëlle and Michael (two French friends who also work in Ayni), Bruno and I were two weeks ago. We meet at 9 am on a Saturday morning in a suburb of Sucre. According to the "Routard" my "travel bible", from there buses leaving for Chaunaca, a village located 3 hours walk from Maragua and its crater
Instead of bus, jumped on a freight truck! We set up the driver's cab, foot a few inches from the faces of peasants sitting below us in the middle of bags of grain and other agricultural products

Indeed, most of the time here foodstuffs are still on track to small villages on the backs of man (or woman)! Bolivians are able to travel impressive distances loaded like donkeys! (Pausita because rice does not go ... I will exchange the computer for a bedpan and wait.'ll See what happens)

25/06: Since my post yesterday, I gobbled a bit of love Kouign ( delicious cake prepared by Gaelle Breton), I vomited in the middle of the night. And today a piece of bread and a banana, which are still locked up in my esophagus. As a result, I keep the bed well today, and take the opportunity to resume my story ...

Well, I press on the crater

few minutes after our departure from Sucre, surprise: a cow got in the truck! Several minutes were required to make up and reposarla harm than good to the bottom of the trailer, but then I peep the whole trip. From my side, considering how hard it was for us to keep the balance in a sitting position, suffered when he saw her thin legs just keep your body upright (and I ended up at the slaughterhouse, that tragic, right?! But unlike the industrial farm animals (stored throughout their life) is all his days will be spent outdoors!)

After a good hour and a half of truck routes on narrow mountain switchbacks, the driver we landed at an intersection where the road we were looking out. Full of encouragement, we started to walk.

In general, when you go hiking in Bolivia, it is very difficult to know precisely how long it will take your walk. The people have little sense of time and distance. That weekend, when we asked people how much time remained to Maragua, some responded quarter of an hour and a few feet away others said "an hour" ... Farmers know how many turns are left before to reach a village, or what time is based on the location of the sun, but for some Westerners accustomed to accurate, may seem too rough! Finally a good walk as we waited 4 hours were needed to reach Maragua (thought need maximum 2.30). We got there at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, starving and rushed to find a place to camp. The village with its streets deserted, the only small shop (closed on our arrival), and damaged church, resembled a ghost town. Located at the center of a giant crater obscure origins ("meteorite? Volcanic eruption? Everyone has a different version), its inhabitants agriculture and livestock live why they have to go regularly to the city to exchange their products for other staples.

After another half hour of wandering in the village looking for a good soul to tell, just to find beautiful waterfalls within walking distance of town. Decided to camp there. It was time for the night began to fall! We set stones in a circle and went to pick the few branches that were lying around to heat the soup Gaëlle After the preparations were ready for a short but delightful evening by the fire, drinking soup and playing singani tarot. But the 10 had won the cold intensity and each was put into a sleeping bag.

The next day's program was very uncertain: some of the people we had announced that a "working meeting" was to take place in the village at noon and, therefore, a truck to Sucre was going to leave in the afternoon. In contrast, regarding your departure time, the versions differed greatly: 12h, 14H, 16H, 18H? ... Impossible to know! As was our only opportunity to reach Chaunaca motorized transport, we were determined to wait. At noon, we settled on the church square. Several hours passed. By 3, Coline, above a close with a long view in his hands, eventually distinguish a vehicle parked in the central plaza. Indeed, the truck was expected but their drivers were busy fixing a tire. We had to wait another hour. We left at 5.

What we never imagined was that the entire state also truck was inadequate. After a few kilometers, was first gearbox to be teased. Fortunately, some arrangements (and shots of alcohol for the driver) later, it was repaired and we could leave again.

A few dozen yards away, a tire exploded. The driver deemed it unnecessary to stop for something so small (such as tires go in pairs, the second was still running ...). On the bus, the atmosphere was a little tense: whites evacuated stress cracking jokes, Bolivians silently prayed for it to yet another path-Sucre Maragua not last. Fortunately (or miracle), arrive safely at Sucre, around 20pm, tired and hungry, but very happy this weekend so exciting!

Three days later, was to leave for Arica, Chile, to meet with Christian and Juan Luis, two friends, and spend a few days of vacation with them. As my passport was still in the hands of migration, Nelly had prepared for me a letter to the immigration services of La Paz in order to obtain a passport outstanding loan Bad luck: after four hours of waiting in front of officials very uncooperative, told me that my passport had not arrived in La Paz and they could not do anything for me. After getting angry just enough (at this rate, it is always best to know content), packed my bags and walked away, furious. Finally, while Bruno was going to wait Olivier (one of his friends), in Peru, I was waiting for Christian and Juan Luis in La Paz. Cristian arrived the next day at night, and Juan Luis a day after

week in La Paz went really well. I thought to know the city, I discovered a lot of new places and lived many new experiences. The hostel, for starters, was a good distance from the noise of the center, with flowers and animals, I did well. The descent of the route of death by bike, of course, was an unforgettable experience.

For about thirty euros, he comes to look to his hostel at 8 and was driving at the beginning of a long descent that leads to Coroico (city of the Yungas as mentioned in the message "Cocoroicooo). There, after breakfast, served at roadside, each gets their equipment (pants and a plastic jacket, plus a helmet, and protections for those who paid a bit more (ie not me)). Then, start down 3 good hours, first in a paved road for twenty miles, then a rocky path that winds to the mountainside for about forty miles The first meters, each clings to handle and opens eyes as a forum to avoid falling, but then learns to absorb the impact and take curves well ... and gets used ..

As the only girl in the group, I can proudly say that I was not so bad. This route, which was taken by trucks and buses a few years ago, recorded hundreds of deaths (150 per year on average, or the equivalent of three busloads ...). Today, apart from the more adventurous tourists who do not realize the danger and eventually come off the road, accidents are rare. The main reason is that motor vehicles now take another route, much better equipped and therefore less dangerous!

We all down safe and sound, sweating in our orange vests, and thirsting for brutal change in temperature that occurs during the descent (it is a tropical zone!). On arrival, after a last "photo-memory" (which I find so funny that I can not resist the urge to put it online ...), the agency left us in a hostel with showers, swimming pool and buffet. Sure, it was very nice, although a very 'fixed' for my taste. Is that all agencies place their "death-roadeurs" in the same hostel (with respect to Club Med) and give them a shirt stamped "Death Road Survivor 'not very my style ... In any case, despite the obligatory passage by an agency, Believe me down the path of death in bike worth it! I would not hesitate a second to do it again!

The next day, my companions and I decided to go to Sorata, a town two hours from La Paz Peru towards noon, after completing all the administrative formalities, Cristian was able to get behind the wheel of the (unclean) golden jeep we rented for the occasion (there was no other available ...). We take the motorway in the direction of El Alto, a passage almost forced to leave La Paz. Along the way, it was surprising to see no signs (or speed limit), and even more amazingly, almost no other vehicle. But it was only coming to the toll of El Alto we knew the reason for this temporary absence (light vehicles, no signal): block!

Once on the toll was impossible to pass. Cars and trucks turned gave one after another. One police officer explained the reason for the strike: as the price of public transport had increased, the inhabitants of El Alto had decided to express their dissatisfaction by blocking access to the city throughout the day. We announced it would last until 6 (time of sunset). Turned around, a little shoker by the news, and determined not to let discouraged so quickly, we got to go the streets of La Paz in search of another passenger. By 4 o'clock, after several attempts, we managed to enter El Alto by an indirect route. It was a bad idea because we did not know that the blockade had moved into the city. On the streets, few cars were spinning desperately seeking a way out, but there was nothing to do: the roads were blocked by stones, burning tires or Bolivians stubborn. Personally, I felt comfortable, I, with my face gringa (pejorative term originally referred to the Americans, but that was extended to all foreigners), driving a jeep gold, lost in El Alto have blocked ... best moments had. We need to know that El Alto is the center of Bolivia's anti-imperialism. In all parts of the city can read slogans pro-Evo Morales (and against the incursion of foreign firms in the Bolivian economy)

Finally, around 17:30, getting dark, we decided to fall back to La Paz and return the car ... . Given the danger of the roads in Bolivia, Sorata out for so late would have been crazy.

After returning the car to the agency (which fortunately we did pay a single day), we alleviated by going to the Valley of the Moon. This valley, situated at a small time micro (name given to public transport here: trucks of all sizes, age and nationality, although Now many come from China ...) from downtown La Paz, is well named: it really looks like lunar landscapes. The erosion has given birth to strange rocky forms among which you can walk. Reminded me of Death Valley in San Pedro de Atacama in Chile: very dry, very disconcerting ... and very nice!

Wednesday night, after my goodbye to Christian and Juan Luis who returned Chile, went to settle at Daniel's house where they were to meet with me three days after Charlotte (who had gone to climb Machu Pichu with three friends Breton Sucre who left a few weeks back), the other accompanied by Guillaume Charlotte, her boyfriend, visiting for a few weeks, Hill, Olga, and Bruno and his friend Olivier. I took three days of calm to work on my workshops and attend a lecture on the achievements of the process of change in Bolivia (state reform, constitutional reform, nationalization of hydrocarbons, practical adaptation of multiculturalism ....) The event was organized by the Alliance Francaise in collaboration with the Museum of Ethnography and Folklore. Consequently, several French researchers, among which some had been useful to me in my dissertation on Bolivia for two years, were invited. I was very happy to put my foot back in the world of research and policy, but I still have no remorse for having left, then "shoemakers in their shoes." For now, I need something concrete!

why we had to meet in La Paz? To go on Sunday June 21 in the morning, "wilkakuti" (Aymara New Year) in the ruins of Tiwanaku, an ancient pre-Hispanic city, and even pre-Inca, located in the vicinity of Lake Titicaca. Indeed, for the Indians of the Altiplano, the winter solstice is consistent with the start of a new agricultural year. For this occasion, have the habit of meeting before the famous Puerta del Sol to get beyond the first rays of sun (and capture energy astral). This year, the Aymara entered the year 5517 in your calendar).

The twelve we left La Paz on Saturday afternoon in a rented minibus. Along the way, we distributed masks police intended to prevent a possible spread of swine flu, which we got everyone laughing, to take them from a few feet away.

When we got to Tiwanaku, the first thing we saw were dozens of meters of samples of hats, scarves, socks, gloves and other warm clothes. In the winter, as we know, the problem in Tiwanaku, is the cold. At night, temperatures drop to 6 degrees or less (that is the temperature recorded at dawn, when he was climbing). As result to stand, Bolivians are sheltered from the hot way they can, and then dance and drink all night. In my case, after some tea with tea (tea with lemon and singani cinnamon, delicious!) And dance steps in the central plaza, I returned the truck to sleep a few hours. At 6 o'clock, we all rise. Sleepings shoulders, went out in the direction of the ruins. There, with his hands up at dawn, hundreds of Bolivians were present to greet the sun. Before the people, indigenous leaders came to rituals: llama sacrifices, spells ... but did not see much, the excitement was there!

Then we went to taste a few trout on the banks of Lake Titicaca (the trout is almost the only fish consumed in Bolivia. Obviously, it is a freshwater fish ...). We only saw a small part of the lake but I go again ...!

After those ten days of vacation, it was time to return to Sucre No way to miss most of my workshops! In addition, for some days we are working on a project: mid-July to organize a "fair food and games» What will it consist of? Heeeee ... is a bit long to explain. It will be for the next message!

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Kisses to all, Marion