Mi madre, Maria Cristina and her two friends, Claudine and Pascale came to Sucre on Saturday July 4 in the morning, tired but happy: your air travel and overnight in Santa Cruz had elapse well.
The day after arrival we had planned to go to market Tarabuco. After 1h30 bus in the middle of the valleys around Sucre, we Tarabuco, a small town famous above all for its Sunday market where Tarabuqueños sell their textiles and other handicrafts. The Tarabuqueños, and Jallkas villagers in general are known for their weaving. The making of a material requires several months and required to have an insane patient. Indigenous continue to weave on their looms manuals t raditionally. Tied to the vertical hundreds of threads from which then spend another thread that will give one or another color to the fabric as if they go up or down (not easy to explain, sorry ...). Most of the time, weave the wool of their goats, llamas and alpacas! It is a painstaking task!
typical fabrics are red and black Tarabuqueños and represent underground creatures, completely imaginary or inspired by reality. I took this Tarabuco Sunday shopping to buy some tissues I have hurry to teach!
The following week, as he had been unable to spend time with my mother and her friends earlier this week because of my workshops, I took Thursday and Friday to accompany them to Potosí. When we got there on Thursday night, we were lucky: the first agency to propose a visit of mine convinced us. We proposed a visit by French et a special rate for Claudine and my mother would not enter the mine and were content with a visit abroad.
José Luis, Our guide, a Bolivian with a remarkable level of French (especially for someone who has learned only), was impeccable! He took us first to market "miners", where they buy the products that will enable them stand all day at the bottom of the mine: coca leaves, alcohol at 96 °, soda, cigars ... And dynamite! Miners also buy a piece of "catalyst" paste mixed with coca leaves in his mouth for more flavor and facilitate the absorption of its juice. The catalysts are made from quinoa ashes, or even corn. There are several flavors depending on what you add potatoes, anise, banana ... As far as I'm concerned, I prefer to chew the coca leaf "natural" (But who said the cocaine alone had a bad taste?), Perhaps I have not found the catalyst of my dreams.
Once purchased gifts for the miners (dynamite and soda), Pascale and I took our clothes of miners, rubber boots, pants and a yellow plastic jacket and a helmet and headlamp. In Potosi tourists visiting the mines seem to come out of the book Germinal. Wandering in the middle of real miners at work in a tourist attire a little ridiculous (but necessary say, quite useful once in the mine). As much as I like I was comfortable, past the locker room door, outside the shock of reality was hard.
Then take the path of the Cerro Rico, the mountain whose precious minerals, he was famous Potosi. For over which culminates at 4800 meters, from the start of operations, 400años ago, the hill sank at least 200 meters. However, mining today is much lower than what has been in the past, when the mountain brimming with silver and tin. Today, the Cerro Rico is not exploited rather than for zinc, which constitutes 80% of mineral extracted.
While Claudine and my mother waited outside, Pascale and I went to follow in the galleries José Luis narrow, muddy and dark on the hill. From my first visit of mine a few years ago, had kept the memory particularly stressful. With Caroline, we descended several levels to the hottest galleries. Dificál was breathing, it was dark, it was necessary jump to the wall every time I passed a van, we banged the roof ... I remember especially after the first few minutes, I just thought on one thing: going outdoors! This time the visit was more "soft" because we stayed at the level at which we entered and spent only an hour inside. Pascale, not three rassurée muypas au depart, did not regret having come, we chat with the miners and José Luis Contet all our questions.
Here it comes, in disarray, what he told us:
Potosí population amounted to 150 000. Last year, 15,000 miners working in mines, or one tenth of the total population. This year, reefs have been thinned and mining activity are no longer 4500. Of the 10 000 remaining, many were recycled in the construction, sometimes permanently, sometimes hoping that they can provide a bonanza to follow (each miner is a vein until it is exhausted (the reef ... not mine .. . but we can say that the miner also because life expectancy is 55 years ...))!
All the miners belong to cooperatives, which distribute the reefs, fixed (depending on the size of the reef?) The duration of contracts and determines the selling price of the mineral to The refineries membership in a cooperative mining costs at between 600 and 700 dollars! Any new mining should invest an initial capital to buy their materiel and basic tools (chisel, hammer, lamp, uniform, boots ...).
Before the cooperatives were the only managers working in the mine, miners had state. But in 1985, when the mineral really began to thin, many mines were closed and all state miners were fired. When the activity is resumed, the cooperative took over the state.
in 1545, after the English discovered the Cerro Rico and silver. The veins of silver were of such quality that the mines of Potosi not take long to become the world's most productive. Were the main source of wealth for the English Empire for over two centuries, until the end of the colony. But then, other foreign businessmen came and ordered to continue the exploitation of mines and at the same time the native population.
Despite its difficult location (altitude, cold, lack of oxygen, arid soil ...), the city developed into late eighteenth century the largest city in all Latin America, and one of its richest. But the decline came fast: in the early nineteenth century, silver production began to decline. It was thanks to the extraction of tin mining activity remained. Today, the mines are still operating mostly due to zinc. However, it is important to remember that 90% of the silver of the English Empire during the colonial period came from Potosi.
Today, unlike the former state-owned mines where miners benefit from some more modern tools, the mines are managed by cooperatives Like working for the colony. Csa mining ore extracted by hand using rudimentary tools (hammer and chisel in particular). The drilling of the galleries depends on the orientation of new veins, which run till miners have extracted all the ore. This mode of operation aspect, that explains the labyrinthine underground. The order only refers to the levels or floors. As the Hill is more than to500m high, there are many entries (200 according to Jose Luis), located at different altitudes. The galleries and wells only hold wooden beams, and major injury, accident at the mine are caused by derumbes (non-flammable gas, and then there is no risk of coal mine Phew.)
Miners work an average of 10 to 12 hours each day and earn between 1000 and 1800 Bolivianos per month (between 100 and 180 €).
Here are the basic information. I will not dwell on the period of the colony and forced labor of indigenous people (tens of thousands dead in the mines), those who are interested will find information easily on the internet (or send me your questions).
After visiting the mines, went to rest, and then I went back Sucre where I was expecting a very busy weekend. To mark the birthday of Colin and Charlotte, we rganizers a house party. Despite the failure of my banana cake and my motivation at half-staff, the evening was a success. Felix, a Chilean passion for music, came with his guitar and played a good part of the night. So once again I became autistic and spent a good part of the night taking advantage of the concert ... advantage also to inaugurate the "wrist-musical" that Tarabuco had bought a week earlier. It is decorated with goat clogs are clashing when you shake the doll! Convenient to set the pace without being heard too.
On Tuesday and Wednesday following, we organize a fair DECIC Education in the House of Culture, in order, among other things, Colin and Charlotte are about to leave, presented the results of workshops Everything was to perfection! Here is a little article I wrote for the website story Ayni where the event:
A successful show for Ayni
On Tuesday and Wednesday This week, Ayni Education organized a major exhibition at the Casa de la Cultura de Sucre. After several weeks of preparation, members of the association were rewarded by the success of her that attracted many visitors.
For two days, the House of Culture is filled with children, parents and other curious to discover the activities of the Association. Everyone had the opportunity to try a game of Ayni, among whom were some new ones, created by volunteers. People might find crafts made by children and to taste the dishes prepared by the mothers of Mesa Green. It was an opportunity for each volunteer to present the results of their workshops, and for children and mothers to discover the amount of work done in recent months!
The courtyard just enough to get the whole event. The houses were arranged around the runner and volunteers distributed among them according to their activity.
at the gate, Nelly and Elodie (when not attending to journalists) welcomed visitors and discover the educational games were created by Ayni: burbot, the 4x4, the tangram ...
A little further, Assia, Mickael, Zulma and Melby did visit the exhibition of handicrafts made with the children. From the comics of Assia and flowers Mickael-recyclable paper items to Zulma and Melby ceramics, the works were displayed in no less than six tables.
The following officers received the cooking workshop and sale of food and Marion Coline. In the morning, from 10, children and Villa Armonia Sica Sica were cooking crumbles present and sell to their great happiness, cookies and crumbles were more successful! In the afternoon, trainee chef gave place to the mothers of Mesa Verde, to prepare some of the dishes found at the workshops. I wonder since he left nothing left API, cheesecakes, gratin of cauliflower, pastries, fruit salads and pizzas. As they enjoyed their dishes, visitors could discover the secrets of cooking mothers keeping an eye on the recipe and photos of the workshop.
A few yards away, strange fruits and vegetables with legs waiting for the visitors. With her big eyes and their bright colors, the sculptures of plants called much attention. Those who had more curiosity could come and discover their names and their stories: Mika's father, Rodrigo cucumber, peanuts ... Johnny
A side of vegetables was the corner "toy library "Géraldine. Was laid on the floor rugs, pillows, and ... a lot of games. They were taken by assault by children who spent several hours with the volunteers who did not stop to deal cards.
In the big table, and Charlotte R Magalí taught children (and parents) Ayni didactic games. While some backbreaking to resolve as quickly as they could the operations of the 4x4, the other concentrated to remember the location of the letters of the "Memory of Bolivia."
At the same time, few tables away, Coline continued heading of "Game of the seven families in the departments of Bolivia." In the version of Ayni game invented by each family corresponds to each department, with his dancing, his shield, his culinary specialty, its flag, anniversary date and emblematic animal!
The two days were scored by Luke puppet shows, clown whose valuable talents once again made the children laugh out loud.
Wednesday, when the night began to fall, the time of closure and dismantling the show had arrived. With a glass of cider in hand, Kelly thanked all participants and provided the success of this ... and the next fair!
far as I'm concerned, this show allowed me to take stock of the first three months of my volunteering. Despite having the feeling of lack of time to prepare as much as I would like my workshops (in particular the theoretical interventions to the mothers), I am very happy. The best proof of the success of my workshops was the motivation of mothers during the fair. A little stressed on Monday to think that alone should cook dishes that had been done once, it came out great. Do not know yet if it collected a lot of money but not lost, that's the most important.
As for my other workshops, after several days stressed about not finishing on time mache paper plant had begun Urkupiña children, what a relief to see them exposed! People found them well made ... and me too!
Now, I'm thinking of new workshops for the month of September. To cut only cooking workshops, I would like to start a macrame workshop (making bracelets, necklaces and other trinkets) with children. I'll have to enable me before ... but I'm very motivated. I would also start a pastry shop Urkupiña adolescents, young people at the height of a rebel, not always easy to handle, but full of mind when they proposed activities. Besides skiing camps, I've never worked with adolescents ... It's now or never!
And from here until September, what plans? The first fifteen days of August I will devote to my project back to France (which is to organize a small festival on the theme of Bolivia, with photo exhibit, screening of documentaries and organization a concert of Bolivian music in Lille). Charlotte and I are still in the drafting of the dossier ... but is taking shape! I'll give more details in next post ...
Then, take a vacation. I have taken the last fifteen days of August for exploring in Chile, an old dream ... Charlotte and Charlotte will be in the travel and Marie who just arrived in Latin America. We plan to lower the Pan to Santiago by car location ... A more promising road trip!
Voilà voilà, that's it for today!
Un beso a todos great.
Chao
Marion
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